Which Way Should Hardwood Floors Run?

Hardwood Floor

Which Way Should Hardwood Floors Run?

Do you notice the direction hardwood flooring runs when you walk into a house? It can make a big difference in how it looks and how it behaves over time. Rule number one in laying hardwood flooring is the wood boards should run perpendicular to the floor joists below. This allows the boards to “span” from one joist to the next and be much more solid. If the boards were run parallel to the floor joists, most of the boards would sit only upon the plywood subflooring and not on any of the joists. The plywood is flexible and will “give” fractionally when walked upon. This is a recipe for squeaks and large gaps.

Which Way Should Hardwodd Floors Run

But another rule in laying wood flooring has to do with the aesthetics or look of the flooring. As a general rule, wood flooring looks best when running in the same direction as the longest dimension of the room. For instance, if the room is ten feet by sixteen feet, the wood flooring will look best when running in the sixteen foot direction. The narrower the room, the more important this is. So in a hallway that is only four feet wide, the wood flooring really needs to run the length of the hall and not crosswise, if at all possible. In rooms that are more square in shape, the direction of the wood flooring is not as critical.

Also consider the view you have of the floor when you enter the room. The wood flooring looks best if laid perpendicular to your view direction. This will disguise the cracks between the planks. If you are looking straight down the planks, the seams between the boards will be more obvious. And if the seams are not perfectly straight, you will more readily see that variation, too.

It’s not always practical to run the flooring in these optimal directions. But if you can do it, the benefits are real. If the floor joists below the wood flooring are running the wrong direction for the way you want the flooring to look in the room, ask your builder to install wood blocking beneath the floor from joist to joist to support a floor running parallel to the joists. This will cost a bit more, but it will be worth it in narrow spaces, like hallways.

Of course, selecting the right wood for your floor is very important. Consider the grain and color of the wood and how it will look with other wood items in the room, like kitchen cabinets and wood trim.

One other neat feature is to install flush thresholds between rooms. I show photos of this and describe it in detail in my book, Designing Your Perfect House.

Bill Hirsch

Bill Hirsch


  1. ladonna on April 12, 2011 at 11:55 am

    the ceiling of our home is wood planks–we are replacing carpet with wood–should the flooring run same direction of ceiling planks?????

    • Gary Bill on April 15, 2011 at 8:33 am

      Iadonna – I think it would be best if the floor ran the same direction as the ceiling planks. But that may not be possible. The flooring must run perpendicular to the floor framing so it is properly supported. If the existing floor joists are running the same direction as the ceiling planks, then the flooring will end up perpendicular to the ceiling. However, you could install blocking between the floor joists, if they are accessible, and then run the flooring parallel to the joists. The blocking would provide the proper support.

  2. Lisa on July 26, 2011 at 8:51 am

    We have hardwood on our 1st floor all running perpendicular to the joists. We had the MBR hardwood and it is running in the same direction of the downstairs. We just had the stairs and upper hall done and the installer laid the floor longways down the hall instead of going with the flow of the MBR. He claimed the joists were different upstairs from downstairs but we can see the seams and nail pops underneath the MBR (which is our LR ceiliing) and it appears the joists go the same on both levels. What should we do about our hallway. It runs completely different from the rest of the house and looks terrible next to the MBR entrance. Should the installer be responsible for the repair??

    • Gary Bill on July 26, 2011 at 10:50 pm

      Lisa – This sounds like the installer took the easy way out when he installed the flooring. By running it the long way, he saved himself a lot of cutting and gave you an improper installation. Yes. He should be responsible for the repair, unless he can prove the joists run perpendicular to the flooring. If you have original drawings (blueprints) of the house, they may show the joist direction on them. But it sounds like your nail pops and seams that show in the ceiling below are plenty of evidence that your flooring is improperly supported. Hopefully the installer will do the right thing and correct this at no additional cost to you.

  3. Kay on July 27, 2011 at 9:27 am

    I am getting ready to have floors installed and the installer said it was best to have them running lengthwise as you open the door to the house which is what I believe you are saying above. He said it allowed the best appearance to the opening of your house and light- please advise??

    • Gary Bill on July 27, 2011 at 12:24 pm

      Kay – The wood flooring will look best if it runs the long direction in a room. This is particularly true in hallways where the length of the hall is much greater than the width. But the visual aspect is less of an issue than the structural issue. What I mean is it is important to have the wood planks properly supported on the floor joists. So first and foremost, the wood flooring should run perpendicular to the floor framing. If that would make your floor look choppy because the planks would be short and numerous, the remedy is to install blocking below the subfloor to support the wood planks. In an existing home, this may be impractical. You will have to weigh the benefit against the cost. Hopefully your floor joists already run perpendicular to the direction you would like the floor to run.

  4. Gloria on August 8, 2011 at 1:07 pm

    I’m curious that no one ever mentions the existence of a subfloor when discussing laying hardwood flooring. We have a cabin and laid 3/4″ OS B atop the joists. I presume we can lay hardwood in any direction desired? Also, unfortunately nothing is level (it’s a cabin after all) and the floor slopes slightly toward one end of the house…possibly off as much as 1/2″ from the other end of the room (16 feet away). How do we best approach this when laying hardwood and are there any width restrictions due to this different?

    • Gary Bill on August 8, 2011 at 1:27 pm

      Gloria – Do NOT lay the hardwood in any direction. The flooring must be laid perpendicular to the floor joists for proper support. All of the discussions presume a subfloor. But the subfloor itself is not strong enough to support the wood flooring properly. Any boards that run parallel to the joists, but are located above the spaces between the joists, will move fractionally when stepped upon. This will cause the floors to become uneven and the flexing will cause squeaks.

      Regarding your non-level floor, you can lay the wood floor on top of the joists and simply let it slope. Chances are the only way to remove that slope is to jack up the framing itself. And that may be more trouble and cost than it’s worth.

      • Joe on January 11, 2018 at 8:59 pm

        It seems if the subfloor is 3/4″ plywood, it should provide proper support regardless or orientation.
        If it can support a carpeted floor, why would it needs the floor joists to help with planks?

        • Gary William Hirsch on January 16, 2018 at 9:01 am

          Joe – Theoretically, it should. But in reality, even 3/4″ plywood will flex. Try laying a piece of 3/4″ plywood on two 2×4’s and step in the middle. And jump up and down. Does the plywood flex a little bit? I’ll bet it isn’t nearly as stiff as you expect. With the floor boards running parallel to the joists, you will have lots of floor boards only supported by the plywood and not the joists. In places where you step all the time, like at the bottom of the stairs or near doorways, the boards can begin to move. Even a microscopic movement can allow the boards to squeak.

  5. Eugene on September 22, 2011 at 2:20 pm

    I am laying flooring over cement subfloor in several rooms on ground level and also down a set of stairs into basement. First, will it look best if direction of lay be consistent in all rooms? If yes, the direction of lay will likely be in same direction as the longest dimension in the living room, unfortunately this will require that the 8′ entrance hallway be laid contrary to your advice. What is your advice concerning multiple rooms and how critical is it that planks be laid parallel to the direction of the hallway? Also, lay direction will terminate at the top of stairs and changed to go down stairs. Are there any issues with this that I am not seeing now?

    • Gary Bill on October 2, 2011 at 6:04 pm

      Eugene – The general rule would be to lay all of the wood flooring in the same direction. But you can lay wood flooring in different directions in different rooms if circumstances demand it. It works best if there are defined openings from room to room. If I’m understanding you correctly, if you lay the flooring the long way in your hall, it will be perpendicular to the wood in the adjoining rooms. I would suggest making the transition in direction at the edge of the “room side” of the wall the doorway is in and not make the transition on the hallway side of the wall. In other words, make sure the planks run the long direction within the doorway opening. You want it to look logical when it’s all done.

  6. Ken on October 2, 2011 at 5:24 pm

    Hi Bill–

    Thanks for putting this up, it’s just what I needed.

    Unfortunately, I have a conundrum. My floor joists run in the long direction in my fairly long and narrow kitchen. I’m in the midst of a remodel– can I do the blocking you mention in an existing home, or does it have to go under the sub-floor, which would be impractical.

    Thanks for your help!

    Ken K,

    • Gary Bill on October 2, 2011 at 5:37 pm

      Ken – Yes, the blocking should be installed under the subfloor and between the joists. If the room below the kitchen is unfinished and ductwork, pipes, etc. are not in the way, you could easily do it yourself. All you need to do is cut pieces of 2×4 the proper length and nail them up against the subfloor and between the joists (with the long direction of the 2×4’s going perpendicular to the joists. A nail gun will make the job easier. And some Liquid Nails glue will help prevent squeaks. But if you cannot get to the underside of the subfloor, another possible fix would be to install a second layer of subflooring over the one you already have. That should make the subfloor strong enough to support the wood floor boards and keep them from moving. Of course this option will thicken your floor and it may require some sort of transition threshold where the new floor ends and adjoins another flooring material. You’ll have to decide if that will be acceptable to you or not.

  7. Ken on October 2, 2011 at 7:43 pm

    Thanks again, Bill!

  8. marilyn on November 5, 2011 at 8:47 am

    If I have my new floor laid according to your aesthetics, it would run vertically as you enter the living room from the entry way i.e., running in the same direction as the longest dimension of the room. This, however, is contrary to you suggestion as to how it looks best if laid perpendicular to your view direction as you enter the room. So which should it be?

    • Gary Bill on November 7, 2011 at 8:40 pm

      Marilyn – In rooms that are not too narrow, the hardwood flooring can run in either direction. If the wood is laid properly and the joints are tight and straight, viewing it lengthwise will be fine. The more important question in your case would be what direction the underlying floor joists run. The hardwood flooring is best laid perpendicular to the joists so the planks are properly supported on several joists.

  9. Lisa on November 11, 2011 at 4:51 pm

    Hi Bill,
    I’m wondering, after reading all the above, is it best that I lay my hardwood perpendicular to the joists? Sorry, couldn’t resist! But really, thanks for your helpful info and patience.

    • Ann on February 3, 2017 at 2:10 pm

      I had to giggle at Lisa’s post because I was thinking the same thing after reading your informative article.

  10. Citydweller on January 18, 2012 at 1:03 am

    Hello Bill,
    Thanks for the informative article. Here’s one for you…I’m getting the following wideplank engineered hardwood installed in an apartment: http://www.andersonfloors.com/flooring/VYM6296.aspx .
    It will be glued directly to cured/sealed cement (above grade, no soundproofing required). You mentioned the wood running parallel to the entrance hallway, but given the layout in link below, and an outdoor space which will be accessible via sliding doors what are your thoughts?
    Thank you in advance.


    • Gary Bill on January 28, 2012 at 6:00 pm

      Citydweller – This looks like a case where it would be best to let the flooring run in the short direction in the entry hall in order to have it run in the long direction (north and south on your plan image) in the main living spaces. That will also let the flooring run parallel to the sliding doors. No rule is unalterable, depending on the circumstances.

  11. George on January 23, 2012 at 6:07 pm

    Hi Bill. I searched your site but couldn’t find an answer to this question. I have a long great room and I want to run the flooring parallel with the floor joist. Question is this ok to do because my subfloor is OSB and it is 1″ thick. I have an older home.

    Thank you

    • Gary Bill on January 28, 2012 at 6:20 pm

      George – With one inch OSB, you might be okay running the flooring parallel to the joists. Try to make an assessment of how rigid the subflooring is. Most subflooring is only 5/8″ thick. Your one inch material is almost like having a double subfloor. Also, test out a spot or two to make sure the subfloor will hold a nail reasonably well. If nails begin to pull out later, you’ll be overrun by floor squeaks.

  12. Lynn on January 28, 2012 at 1:43 pm

    Hi Bill,

    I have a smallish open floor plan with cement floors with radiant floor heat. If I lay the floors long wise to the longest side of the front room (preferred, based on what I have read here, and aesthetically in this particular room would look better, I think), I will see them long wise when I enter the front door (not preferred from what I read here). Also, the hallway which is connected to the main room runs perpendicular to the long side of the front room. Does that make sense? So, then the hallway would be chopped into short pieces as opposed to running lenthwise which I think would look better in the hallway. Or do I go the other way? Lay them across the short way in the front room, which then I would be looking across the planks when I enter the front door and then they would lay long wise down the hall way? Any thoughts? Thanks.

    • Gary Bill on January 28, 2012 at 6:31 pm

      Lynn – With a concrete slab, you have no restrictions on flooring direction in practical terms. For aesthetics, you might be better off doing what you suggest and have the flooring run in the long direction in both the hallway and the front room. Just install a flush transition board to make a logical change in direction. Sometimes when I do this I make the transition board out of a another species of wood to create a nice contrast. It makes the transition a design feature and not something done for shear utility. The key to good design is to make it look like you meant to do it and not let it look like a mistake. 😉

  13. Russell on February 6, 2012 at 6:00 am

    Hi Bill,
    I am laying floorboards over a concrete slab floor, and was wondering if it is ok to lay them diagonally, do they look any good that way or is that going to be a disaster? The reason I am considering this is to get around the problem of having to have the boards running different directions in the hallway and the living room. I know you have said that a transition can be made to look nice, but I am just trying to think outside the square here. Thanks for any advice, it will be greatly appreciated.

    • Gary Bill on February 18, 2012 at 10:13 am

      Russell – The only potential problem with laying the floor boards diagonally is they might look dated over time. Placing wood diagonally, even on siding, was popular in the 70’s. Now it can date a house. If you want to change the direction of the boards as you move from room to room, you can make the transition by installing a flush threshold board at the doorway. Sometimes I use another species of wood, often something darker, for this to make it an accented feature.

  14. Steve on February 14, 2012 at 10:45 am

    Hi Bill,

    We are planning to install wood flooring. Following the rules of installing perpendicular to the joists, the boards would also run parallel to the longest side of the living room, so that’s good. However, entering the dining room from the living room through french doors, if we continue the boards in the same direction, then the boards would run parallel to the shorter wall of the dining room which is about 11ft x 13ft. Do you think the dining room is “square” enough so that aesthetically it would look OK, rather than change direction and run the boards parallel to the joists? If not, about 15 ft of joist (living room) would have boards perpendicular, and 13 ft of joist (dining room) would have boards parallel – what do you thinK? Much appreciated.

    • Gary Bill on February 18, 2012 at 10:18 am

      Steve – Yes, your dining room is close enough to square for this to work well. No worries.

  15. Rachel on March 14, 2012 at 1:24 pm

    We are installing laminate flooring downstairs in our house. We have 1000sq ft L shaped downstairs. Which way do we lay the floors? When you walk into the front door you walk into a “formal living room”. There is a small wall separating this room & our family room (this being in the corner of the L shape. Then to the right is our kitchen. Since there is a small wall that separates the living room & the family room I don’t exactly see that as being the longest part of the space, even though you can see all the way to the back of the family room when you open the front door. Should we run them long ways as you walk into the house so it flows all way back to the family room? Or run them long ways from the kitchen to the family room. Making you walk across the planks as you walk in the front door, like a ladder?

    • Gary Bill on March 16, 2012 at 9:56 am

      Rachel – The general rule is to run the flooring in the long direction of the room, if possible. But in rooms that are not too narrow, this rule is not as important. In narrow hallways it is. That ladder effect you describe is what you should try to avoid.

  16. Erin on March 15, 2012 at 2:36 pm

    We are laying bamboo wood flooring in all 3 of our bedrooms. It is a darker color ( by choice) than our existing oak flooring running the length of our hallway. Should we lay it Running the long dimension of the rooms, which would make it perpendicular to the hall flooring? And if one room is installed perpendicular to the hallway, should all of the bedrooms be the same was?

    • Gary Bill on March 16, 2012 at 9:59 am

      Erin – You can change directions at doorways. But you should first determine which direction the floor joists are running. The flooring MUST run perpendicular to the joists unless you can add additional wood blocking between the joists to support the wood flooring. If you don’t do this, you will increase the flex in the floor and you’ll get more squeaks and possibly humps in the flooring.

  17. Colin on March 21, 2012 at 12:39 am

    Hi Bill. Great Information, Thanks.

    I’m planning on putting in some hard maple in my house, and it looks like a portion of it will have to be run parallel to the joists. My wife would like all the flooring to run in the same direction. I realize this is a very open ended question with quite a few variables, but roughly how much extra blocking should I adding? Thankfully it’s mostly accessible. Any reading you can point me towards?

    • Gary Bill on March 24, 2012 at 5:18 pm

      Colin – Spacing your blocking at 24″ on center should be plenty. If you are doing this in an existing house, you might want to add a bead of construction adhesive to the top of the blocking before you install it so it adheres to the subfloor. Then be sure to press it tight up under the subfloor. This will help limit squeaking potential.

  18. Brenda on March 21, 2012 at 6:49 pm

    We are laying hardwood flooring in an oddly shaped hallway from the foyer, which already has hardwood flooring laid lengthwise. The hall continues in a straight line from there,but also turns left and continues for about 10feet (L shaped). How do we determine how to lay it so it looks right, but also meets the “perpendicular to moustache” requirement? Thanks!

    • Gary Bill on March 24, 2012 at 5:22 pm

      Brenda – Since the direction of the flooring has already been established by the existing flooring, it is probably best to continue all of it in that direction. The flooring direction “rules” are not hard and fast. Consider them suggestions. Some exceptions have to be made from time to time.

  19. Bart on April 4, 2012 at 1:34 am

    Expansion question. I am laying a unfinished 3/4″ red oak floor in a 1997 home located in Port Angeles, WA. We are close to the ocean so the humidity is fairly stable and temps from mid 60s to low 40s. Wood will be acclimated for at least two weeks and laid perpendicular to joist over 15# felt. The problem is I have a 32′ x17′ room and the 32′ is direction of expansion. From what I can gather this floor could expand up to 1.5″.
    First question is if the last boards move 3/4″, don’t the nails pull out?
    How do I deal with this much movement?
    And last do I dare do a boarder wrap of 12″ of oak and 3/4″ of walnut cut at a 45 degree in all corners?
    Maybe I should pin down our actual humidity change and this all will not be a issue. Thanks for your great Q&A

    • Gary Bill on April 10, 2012 at 5:15 pm

      Bart – The entire floor would pull that far from the edge if it was all glued together to form one large slab of wood. That would be what is called a “floating floor.” In normal installations, each board is nailed to the subfloor independently. Each one shrinks on its own. So if the wood were to shrink 5%, a typical board that is 2 1/4″ wide would shrink about a twentieth of an ich. That would be the gap you would expect to see between each board. In reality, some boards “decide” to stick together. So you may see a few boards that have no gaps between them and then a gap of more than 1/20th of an inch. So there is no concern that the nails will pull out at the edges.

      I see no problem with the 12″ border. Keep in mind that these boards will be subject to shrinking and swelling with the season, too. So if your wood has acclimated before installation and the moisture content in the wood flooring and subfloor are similar and in the optimum range (make sure your installer checks with a moisture meter), you sould see only realatively small seasonal gaps that will go away in the summer. That’s just wood doing its thing.

  20. Kelly on April 23, 2012 at 10:59 pm

    I have a foyer attached to very long hallway (30 feet). This current floor runs vertically and has a dark inlay border. We want the border to stop at a doorway at the end of this 30 ft hall, turning the boards 90 degrees for about a 3 foot space, then start again with the inlay and boards that run vertical, again for another 15 feet, just as they do by the door. We are, essentially, trying to separate the long hall from a newly created room prior to entering the kitchen. The floor in the kitchen runs perpendicular to the hall (just like the 3 foot area).

    Will that 3 foot area in the middle of a 45 foot hall look weird from the front door?

    I apologize if I didn’t describe the situation well.

    • Gary Bill on April 30, 2012 at 8:13 pm

      Kelly – I’m not sure I completely understand your situation, but this sounds like it should work. If you have some reason to stop one pattern and start another, such as at a doorway, it will look fine. The key is to make it logical and have a reason for the change. One way to test this out would be to put some tape on the floor approximately where your inlays will go and look it over from all angles. You should know pretty quickly if this will be successful or not.

  21. Kim on July 5, 2012 at 1:09 pm

    My mom is building a house, it is on a slab. Which direction should the wood floors run??

    • Gary Bill on September 16, 2012 at 10:01 pm

      Kim – Without the consideration of the direction of the wood framing below, I would recommend running the wood floor in the long direction in the room, if at all possible.

  22. Mara on September 12, 2012 at 8:31 pm

    Hi Bill – My 1.5m wide hallway has wood going length ways down it opening up into the middle of a large room (about 9m by 4m) in which a lounge will be on the left, a small dining/breakfast table in front, and kitchen on the right. The room has bifold glass doors opposite the hallway that open out onto the patio. Which way should I have the wood in the bigger room? If it is along the long part of it, then it will be different direction to the hallway. If it is along the width of it it will be same direction of the hallway so flow quite well, but be along the short length of the room. What do you recommend?

    Thanks heaps

    • Gary Bill on September 16, 2012 at 10:09 pm

      Mara – It sounds like you should change the direction of the wood at the door to the larger room and let the wood run in the long direction in that room. The doors give you the perfect opportunity to make the transition.

  23. Mara on September 12, 2012 at 8:33 pm

    PS – the large room has concrete base so no issue with joists etc. Thank you

  24. Clay Marston on December 30, 2012 at 1:44 pm

    At what intervals should you run the 2×4 blocking underneath your subfloor to properly support your hardwood floor. Thanks for all the information and tips provided. C.M.

    • Gary Bill on January 7, 2013 at 11:40 am

      Clay – Ideally the blocking should be place at 16″ on center, just like the floor joists. But if nearly all of your floor boards are over two feet in length, you could use blocking that is spaced at 24″ on center.

  25. Danielle on January 16, 2013 at 9:36 am

    I’m hoping to have the wood flooring in our kitchen redone in the near future. Along with the kitchen I would like to add wood to the stairs leading from the ktichen down to the family room (quad level home). The wood runs lengthwise toward the family room. Do the steps need to run in the same direction? I’ve seen photos of others flooring and I really don’t think it looks good having say ten 12″ boards in a row for the steps.

    • Gary Bill on January 16, 2013 at 9:54 am

      Danielle – The boards that make up the stair treads should always go in the long direction on the treads regardless of the direction the wood is going in the adjacent rooms. In other words, the boards should be going from side to side as you walk up and down the stairs.

  26. Bill on February 2, 2013 at 1:14 pm

    Hi Bill
    I would like to install hardwood frooring over by existing vinyl floor. The vinyl floor is level, not torn, in good condition. There is 3/4 plywood under the vinyl. Would you have any advice on installing over vinyl?

    • Gary Bill on February 9, 2013 at 12:48 pm

      Bill – I would suggest that you double check my answer with a wood flooring installer, but I believe you should have no problem installing the wood floor right over the vinyl. Usually wood flooring is installed over red rosin paper or even roofing felt (tar paper). This practice helps eliminate squeaks. The vinyl should do the same thing for you.

  27. tori on February 7, 2013 at 6:33 pm

    Hi, we are laying laminate flooring over our existing hardwood (which is almost 100 years old and runs perpendicular to the joists). We are laying a plywood subfloor over the existing hardwood to add support and hopefully eliminate some of the squeaks. Does it matter which direction we lay the laminate planks over the plywood? The laminate is a free floating non adhesive 8 mm brand.

    • Gary Bill on February 9, 2013 at 12:54 pm

      Tori – No, your laminate floor can run in either direction. That’s because the old hardwood floor under it will give it ample support. In fact, I doubt you will need to install the plywood subfloor. I would suggest screwing down the old hardwood flooring, especially in places where it squeaks, and then installing the laminate over that. Chances are the squeaks are caused by the planks of the hardwood flooring moving and rubbing against each other or rubbing against the subfloor below the hardwood. It’s that movement you need to stop.

      Have you considered simply having the hardwood floor repaired and refinished? I did that in a ninety year old house we used to own In Delaware. We even had the stained boards replaced. When it was done, the floors were the best feature of the house. And a good polyurethane finish, like Bona Traffic, will be very easy to live with.

  28. Karen Flores on October 22, 2013 at 12:14 pm

    I’m having wood flooring put down on a concrete slab. The installer suggested laying the flooring on a diagonal to give the rooms a larger appearance. The livingroom, dinning, and kitchen are all one area. The house is really small only 1366 sq ft total with majority being down stairs. The flooring will be installed in every room down stairs, as well as being put on the stairs. Will the diagonal instalation actually make the house/rooms appear bigger? I’ve never seen this done.

    • Gary William Hirsch on November 5, 2013 at 9:03 am

      Karen – The diagonal flooring was a bit of a fad in the 70’s, but you hardly ever see it anymore. I don’t think it makes the room loo larger. As a general rule, you would want to run the wood flooring the long direction of the room. This is more important in narrow rooms and less important in wide rooms. But make sure of the direction of the floor joist beneath the floor. Your hardwood flooring should run perpendicular to the joists so they can support the flooring properly. If you want to run the wood flooring parallel to the joists, you will need to install solid blocking between the joists to provide support. Otherwise, you will get a squeaky floor.

  29. Jocelyn Juul on November 30, 2013 at 9:59 pm

    Hi, We just purchased a home and are putting down stranded carbonized bamboo. It has a 2×6 sub-floor so the direction is not a problem. We do however have a “hump” that runs the length of the room so that when you look into the room the walls on the left and right are lower that the middle. We will be trying to lower the flooring from underneath the house but if this does not work in what direction do you suggest we lay the wood to reduce the visibility of the hump?

    • Gary William Hirsch on December 10, 2013 at 7:27 pm

      Jocelyn – The flooring should run perpendicular tot he direction the hump runs. If you were to run the flooring parallel to the hump, the boards would tend to tip and open gaps between the boards.

  30. Cyndi on January 19, 2014 at 10:17 am

    We have a new home we are installing wood floors on the first level. The hallway from the entry door runs about 20 feet where I would want the floors to run perpendicular to the front entry door. However when the hallway reaches the large room of kitchen and living room, I want to run the floors along the length of that room. Therefore, I have a transition at the end of the hallway into the kitchen/living room–what would you suggest to do at the transition point where the floors change direction? Or would you recommend something different?
    You have a lot of great advice on these Q & A’s!

    • Gary